“Location, location, location,” isn’t that what they say? I’m here to tell you that Palisade is the perfect location for skiing in the morning and wine in the afternoon.
Up at 7:30 a.m., we breakfasted in our room at Spoke & Vine Motel in Palisade, Colorado. Lodging here comes with delivery of coffee or tea, yogurt and granola, and a banana. A bonus when getting to the slope for skiing is the priority.
Palisade is a charming town of 2,600, known for peaches and wine. Perhaps less known as a ski town, it is! Situated just 35 minutes from Powderhorn Resort, a ski resort on the Grand Mesa, the flattop mountain that soars 6,000 feet above Palisade.
The largest flattop mountain in the world, at the top, Grand Mesa is 11,000 feet above sea level and features more than 300 lakes. However, this mammoth is one of Colorado’s secret gems.
The views on the ascent are breathtaking, and the top is otherworldly. Indeed it did feel somewhat ethereal, as I drove up the mesa, having left Ryan to ski at Powderhorn Resort. We were to meet for lunch at noon, so I had a couple hours to explore the Grand Mesa for hiking with Fritzi, our German Shepherd.
Our motel, Spoke & Vine, a remodeled and reimagined motel of bygone days, is dog-friendly. There is a bar open to locals too and bikes for guests to borrow. Our room came with a large dog bed, biscuits, and big bowls. This was a nice touch in a world where dog-friendly rooms usually include things for dogs much, much smaller than 62 pound Fritzi.
I drove through aspen trees and pines, the sunlight dappling the wide open road. Expansive views of Grand Valley with its much shorter mesas and curling rivers revealed themselves again and again. Eventually, at the top I was surrounded by pine trees and sparkling fields of white snow crisscrossed by snowmobile tracks.
Only two cars passed me during the 16 miles between Powderhorn Mountain Resort and the Grand Mesa Visitor Center. The trails just beyond this visitor center, called Ward Trails are best with a dog. Some other areas have wonderful cross-country trails, but dogs are not allowed.
We enjoyed a sunny walk through an open field and into the trees, listening to the squirrels and birds and the crunching of our feet on the packed snow. I didn’t need snowshoes, although I could have worn them. Occasionally, Fritzi would veer off the groomed trail, sinking deep into the snow.
As we explored Grand Mesa, Ryan skied Powderhorn, which he hadn’t done since 2013. There are so many reasons to love this resort, especially for those people, like Ryan, who grew up skiing in Colorado.
Despite a lift that whisks people up the mountain 21st century style, for those like Ryan, who learned to ski in the 20th Century, something is comforting and reminiscent about this resort experience.
First, it’s compact. Parking is easy, so easy. In fact, I asked someone if I was supposed to pay somewhere thinking I must have missed a pay here sign. “Nope,” he said, an old-timer with his skis flung over his shoulder, “ Just find a place and go skiing.”
From parking and shuttling, to exorbitant lift ticket prices, Colorado’s ski resorts can be disconcerting—not Powderhorn Mountain Resort.
From parking to the base area, Powderhorn is chill. It’s not about the gear or the ski attire. It’s all about skiing here. A lot of kids learn to ski at Powderhorn and were doing so on field trips visiting from Delta County on the day we were there. Delta County is on the south side of Grand Mesa and also wine country.
Playing Favorites: The North Fork Valley of Colorado
For adults, 13-74, a lift ticket at Powderhorn is $99 on Monday through Thursday, $109 Friday through Sunday and $119 on holidays. Youth ski for an even cheaper lift ticket. There are passes available for students and retired or active military personnel. Season tickets and four-packs are also available.
Over hamburgers, french fries and tasty onion rings from the Powderhorn cafeteria, I learned about Ryan’s ski morning. He showed me a video on his phone of an entire run he skied, only passing two people. Are you seeking a little ski solace? Ski Powderhorn on a Friday morning.
Relatively new, there are tiny homes to rent at Powderhorn within a minute walk of the base. With lodging largely unavailable at the resort, these five tiny homes are one option for visitors.
However, a stay in Palisade is also an option. Spoke & Vine Motel allows access to everything the town and area offer, including top-notch dining and art, and world-class wineries and cideries.
That afternoon, after a quick freshen-up in our room at Spoke & Vine, we set out for a little exploring, but first, we hit an oldie but goodie. Grande River Vineyard, founded in 1987, recently changed hands for the first time. The tasting room has received a face-lift, but still features the old world charm I remember from a trip long ago.
Each summer, the winery hosts Live in the Grapevines, a series of music events in their large events area. Not only does the event bring acts like Hazel Miller to town, it gives locals another reason to love where they live. What’s not to love about wine, food trucks, music and dancing?
On this visit, we went to Carlson Vineyards, and I’m so glad we did. Carlson reminds me of why I love wineries in Colorado. Wine tasting here is never manufactured. Greeted by languorous cats, looking for pets and warm laps, this place epitomizes the Colorado wine scene.
Sitting at an outdoor table, the winter vineyard wrapping around us like a snug blanket, and a cat settling happily in Ryan’s lap, we felt at home. Of course, a randomly 60 degree day in February didn’t hurt matters.
We finished up our winery hopping at Talbott’s Cider Company. Oddly, I’ve never been to the famous Talbotts. The business has been around since 1907, starting as a fruit growing business. They expanded to ciders in 1983, and then to wine as Centennial Cellars in 2019.
Talbott’s main tasting room is in the 1983 cider building in the shade of the Grand Mesa. Its rugged charm fits into the dynamic landscape. Reminding me of a brewery, especially with the dog-friendly patio, Talbott’s frequently hosts live bands and is getting a license to operate their own food truck on the property. They are also starting to serve beer. We can’t wait to go to Talbotts for live music this summer.
Throughout the weekend we ate at various establishments, with a standout being Pêche, which means “peach” in French. Appropriate for a region that grows the world’s best peaches. 
And in fact, of all the creative dishes served that evening, it was the jasmine rice paired with the Tikki Marsala that won my heart. With a curry on top, covering a dollop of peaches, that rice was the most delightful thing I can remember eating in a long time. Our friend Matt, a local and regular at Pêche treated us to dinner. We couldn’t be more thankful for his introduction to this restaurant. As I now say, “One does not do Pêche, Pêche happens to you.”
If you’re craving less fancy but oh so delicious, check out the new weekend barbecue menu at 13 Brix Cider Bistro. While barbecue is never my go-to, Ryan adores it, and he was impressed with our piles of meats. I admit, the ribs cooked in cherry were to-die-for.
Personally, I think the three sauces—Cherry Bomb, White Wash Hot and Hog Wash, inspired by the ciders—is what sets this place apart. 13 Brix Cider Bistro wants to make Palisade Barbecue a thing, and I think they just might. Paired with a flight of their ciders, it was a Palisade meal to remember.
While breakfast is served right to your room at Spoke & Vine Motel, the last morning we opted for breakfast at The Milky Way. We wanted to experience more of the town on the brief visit. With a brightly lit front room and artful outside space, it’s the perfect spot for an affordable bagel and coffee.
Keep an eye out for art when visiting Palisade. From sculptures on the sidewalks to art galleries such as Blue Pig Gallery, Craig Gallery and the Western Slope Mercantile, there is a lot of unique shopping in town.
From skiing in the morning at Powderhorn Mountain Resort, to sipping wine in the afternoon and eating barbecue at night, Palisade makes for a one-of-a-kind type of Colorado experience. And in a world of increasingly engineered fun, it’s refreshing to simply let Powderhorn and Palisade happen to you.
Thank you to Powderhorn Mountain Resort and Spoke & Vine Motel for hosting us!
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